A Door County Fish Boil

The White Gull Inn was aglow with candlelight when we sat down to defrost, unwind and fill our glasses with apple cherry cider. It was a fish boil night in Door County, Wisconsin.

Outside, a Master Boiler stood watch over a large cast iron kettle of salted water hovering above crackling flames. We formed a circle around him as a light snowfall dusted the ground. We intently watched him add red potatoes and onions to the cauldron as if he were a wizard brewing magic potion.

Over 100 years ago, lumberjacks and fisherman stood around a fire much like this one. The fishermen would go out for the day and return with whitefish or trout caught in Lake Michigan. Then they'd invite neighboring residents to join in the fish boil feast. Easy on the wallet and delicious, this tradition has lived on through church fundraising picnics, bazaars and other large gatherings. 

The crowd outside the inn was growing larger as the Master Boiler lowered slices of whitefish into the kettle. It was almost time for the "boilover," a big spectacle that indicates that plates should be at the ready.

The Master Boiler picked up the can of kerosene and motioned for everyone to step back so he could douse the flames. This step is what makes the fish boil The Fish Boil, because it causes the water to super-heat. The fats and oils boil over the side, making the dish taste quite clean.

The blaze was quick and intense. Two burly men removed the food from the fire and brought it inside to be served. A line of eager diners formed at the buffet as bowls of fresh coleslaw and and baskets of homemade bread appeared on the tables. Once seated, a quick drizzle of butter and a squeeze of lemon on the fish completed the dish.

Let's not forget dessert: homemade cherry pie made with delicious Door County cherries is also a part of the fish boil tradition. And of course it's served à la mode — even in the middle of winter.

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Thanks so much to our friends at the Door County Visitors Bureau for hosting us in February 2015 (when this post was originally published)! If you'd like to try this Lake Michigan tradition for yourself,  fish boils like this one are held (at least) weekly.

Words and photos by Alexandra Heide